Sat
Oct 13
9:25pm
10 days of surfing - day 9
Got another one in this morning down at the Grove with Damian and James.
I started to get the feel of the shortboard but it was frustrating out there today. Simply, when the waves are over 3ft it closes out far too often. There are surfers out there on shortboards who seem to cope OK, but their rides are short and the paddle back out is tough, so I can’t see why they’re not at 13th or further down the coast.
I’m not expecting the ocean to cater to our whims, but each time we caught a wave today we were “rewarded” with a punishing 10 minute paddle back out through the break. 10 seconds of wave riding versus 10 minutes paddling is not a friendly ratio.
What we really need is a consistent, non-closeout, 3-4ft wave that runs left for 50-75m. Oh and if it was uncrowded that’d be great.
Ocean Grove, you’ve been fun. Your surf club makes good coffee. I’m sure we’ll be back on a regular basis. But it’s time for us to look around.