Sun
Oct 14
10:24pm
10 days of surfing - day 10
I had two opportunities to surf today but missed both of them as I was spending time with my nieces instead (I did watch the second half of Tubular Swells though).
So 6 surfs in 10 days. What did I learn?
- That I’m not fit enough to paddle out day after day after day (yet)
- That my hybrid board is VERY forgiving when it comes to catching waves and the time it takes me to get to my feet - I’ve been spoilt and am feeling very mediocre re my ability on the shortboard at the moment. I need to spend plenty of time on the shortboard if I want my wave count to remain high
- That Ocean Grove doesn’t handle 3ft+ on a high tide without closing out, which will make it difficult to do anything about (2) if I don’t venture elsewhere, and
- That I love surfing. Whether I’m on my own or having a laugh with friends it just feeds my soul to be out there.
Sadly the forecast for the coming weekend is for no wind and no swell. Crap for surfing but it might be time to break out Muchacha and the wakeboard ……….